men's waistcoats

Frequently Asked Questions

What are men’s waistcoats?

A waistcoat – also called a vest in American English – is a sleeveless, button-front garment worn over a shirt and under a suit jacket. It typically has a V-neck front, a full button placket and an adjustable back strap for fit. Waistcoats are cut to cover the shirt front and the waistband of the trousers, creating a clean, unbroken vertical line between collar and trouser top. In formal dressing, a waistcoat worn as part of a three-piece suit adds a layer of formality and structure. For black-tie occasions, a waistcoat or cummerbund covers the trouser waistband as part of the formal dress requirement. Men’s suits and formal shirts are the natural accompaniments to a waistcoat in formal and business dressing.

How do you wear a waistcoat with a suit?

Wearing a waistcoat with a suit follows a small number of established rules:

• The waistcoat should cover the trouser waistband completely – no shirt or trouser waistband should be visible between the waistcoat and the trousers
• The bottom button of a waistcoat is traditionally left undone, in the same way as the bottom button of a suit jacket
• The back strap should be adjusted so the waistcoat sits flat across the torso without pulling or creasing
• The suit jacket should button over the waistcoat without pulling – if a jacket becomes too tight when a waistcoat is added, the waistcoat is too thick or the jacket size needs revisiting
• In a three-piece suit, the waistcoat, jacket and trousers should be in the same fabric; mixing fabrics produces a less coherent formal result

Can waistcoats be worn without a jacket?

A waistcoat can be worn without a jacket in smart-casual and some business-casual contexts, provided the rest of the outfit is appropriately dressed. A formal wool waistcoat worn over a dress shirt with tailored trousers gives a smart-casual result that works in warmer professional environments – particularly practical in Dubai where the jacket may be removed indoors. A waistcoat worn without a jacket in a casual setting – over a t-shirt or casual shirt – reads as a styling choice rather than a formal statement and is more commonly seen in creative and casual contexts. The waistcoat should always be buttoned when worn without a jacket; an unbuttoned waistcoat without a jacket looks unfinished. Men’s trousers in a coordinating fabric or colour are the most important consideration when wearing a waistcoat jacketless.

What fabrics are men’s waistcoats made from?

Men’s waistcoats are made from a range of fabrics depending on their purpose:

• Wool and wool-blend – the standard fabric for three-piece suit waistcoats; typically matches the jacket and trouser fabric
• Silk-back waistcoats – formal waistcoats with a silk or satin back panel, often used in morning dress and formal occasions
• Linen and linen-cotton blends – lighter waistcoats for warm-weather formal occasions; more relaxed in character
• Evening waistcoats in silk or barathea – specifically designed for black-tie occasions, often in white or ivory
• Knit waistcoats – a casual interpretation of the waistcoat in a knitted construction, suited to smart-casual layering rather than formal dressing

What is the difference between a waistcoat and a gilet?

A waistcoat and a gilet are both sleeveless garments, but they differ significantly in purpose, construction and formality. A waistcoat is a tailored, button-front formal garment designed to be worn as part of a suit or formal outfit. It is typically made from suiting fabrics and has a formal cut with a V-neck and full button placket. A gilet is an unstructured, casual or semi-casual sleeveless jacket – often quilted, padded or made from a technical fabric – worn as an outer layer for warmth in casual or outdoor contexts. A gilet is not a formal garment and is not worn as part of a suit. The two are occasionally confused because of their shared sleeveless construction, but their formality, fabric and purpose are entirely different. Boggi Milano’s waistcoats sit firmly in the formal and semi-formal category alongside the brand’s suits and blazers.